Servicing your car

[itcheh]

This is my first car ... 5 year old Audi TT (yes I know some of you hate this car, but I love it so and stick to the question) and it needs its first 20k mile service

The argument is:

1. Go to a Audi garage and 'retain value' on the car ... but pay through the nose

Vs.

2. Go to a local (well respected) garage, spend less ... but lose the benefit of having a branded garage do the work and 'lose value' on the car.

I can't seem to get a proper answer from any of my so called 'knowledgeable' friends ... I'm not sure what's honest truth or what's urban myth about resale value spread from the dealerships ... at least not one argument that helps me make a decision ... so Freddies I open the floor to you.

 

[Aada]

If you can afford the car you should be able to afford the audi service.

 

[leggy]

If you can afford the car you should be able to afford the audi service.

Hardly the point though is it?

There is no question of he whether he can afford it. He wants to know which option will be the most valuable.

Sorry Itcheh I don't know myself. I went for the respectable garage option myself as I fully intended to keep my car for the majority of its useful life.

 

[itcheh]

It's not a money issue ... it's an issue of value as Leggy said ...

 

[Lester]

I'm not sure that having a franchised garage service a 5 year old car will affect the value that much?

I would have thought at that age it would only matter if it was a specialist car (i.e Ferrari, Aston, high end Merc/BMW etc) or really quite new.

I suppose if it's the 3.2 with a DSG box, it might be worth it, but surely it would only be a matter of a couple of hundred pounds in value VS hundreds of pounds extra in service costs?

A bigger factor might be big repairs with genuine parts.

 

[Tom]

Find a local VW specialist and use them. If you lose any value at all (extremely unlikely), it will be an order of magnitude less than what you'll save by doing so.

So long as OEM VW parts are used in the service, and the correct procedure is followed, you will retain your warranty. Thats law.

The labour will be half the price, and you'll get a decent service. Insist on synthetic oil only.

Or if you plan on keeping the car for some time, service it yourself. All they'll be doing is an inspection and fluid changes, all of which can be done by any competant DIYer.

 

[old.user4556]

If you can afford the car you should be able to afford the audi service.

If you can afford to say stupid things, then you can afford the dentist's bill when someone deservedly Jackie Chans you in the face.

 

[old.user4556]

Find a local VW specialist and use them. If you lose any value at all (extremely unlikely), it will be an order of magnitude less than what you'll save by doing so.

So long as OEM VW parts are used in the service, and the correct procedure is followed, you will retain your warranty. Thats law.

The labour will be half the price, and you'll get a decent service. Insist on synthetic oil only.

Or if you plan on keeping the car for some time, service it yourself. All they'll be doing is an inspection and fluid changes, all of which can be done by any competant DIYer.

What Tom said.

My mate put his A3 1.8T into a VW main dealer and it was a fraction of the cost and they used OEM parts. I also wouldn't worry too much about a 5 year old Audi and main dealer servicing, a good independent specialist will probably do a better job anyway.

 

[Gumbo]

Find a local VW specialist and use them. If you lose any value at all (extremely unlikely), it will be an order of magnitude less than what you'll save by doing so.

So long as OEM VW parts are used in the service, and the correct procedure is followed, you will retain your warranty. Thats law.

The labour will be half the price, and you'll get a decent service. Insist on synthetic oil only.

Or if you plan on keeping the car for some time, service it yourself. All they'll be doing is an inspection and fluid changes, all of which can be done by any competant DIYer.

That's almost right, but you don't need to use OEM Parts any more.

Type approval rules changed a couple of years ago and provided that you use a vat registered garage and 'parts of OEM quality', then the warranty is fulfilled. Mann and Hummel Filters for instance are fine for this. Coopers aren't. Delphi brake pads are, el cheapo ones aren't.

Honestly, for me, 5 year old car? Just use a garage you trust, I wouldn't bother with a dealer at all.

 

[Aada]

If you can afford to say stupid things, then you can afford the dentist's bill when someone deservedly Jackie Chans you in the face.

You'd know then?

 

[Tom]

You'd know then?

Probably from watching you.

 

[Bodhi]

If you can afford the car you should be able to afford the audi service.

 

[old.user4556]

That is one big cock, Bodhi.

 

[throdgrain]

Get it serviced by someone who will do a good job. Its five years old, so forget audi servicing.
I speaketh the truth.

 

[old.user4556]

Honestly, for me, 5 year old car? Just use a garage you trust, I wouldn't bother with a dealer at all.

Thing is Gumbo (well, i found this with one of my older beemers), some garages don't have the right kit to read fault codes from the ECU. I'd still be inclined to go somewhere that could do such a task incase something was throwing a fault code that could potentially be a big bill down the line.

 

[leggy]

That is one big cock, Bodhi.

If I had a quid for every time bodhi heard that.




I'd still be fucking skint.

 

[Gumbo]

Thing is Gumbo (well, i found this with one of my older beemers), some garages don't have the right kit to read fault codes from the ECU. I'd still be inclined to go somewhere that could do such a task incase something was throwing a fault code that could potentially be a big bill down the line.

Yup, that's a fair point. If you're concerned about this sort of thing, you could do worse than look up your local Bosch Service Centre. They'll have a machine called ESiTronic which monitors all Engine Management. They're quite cool, either little Tablet PC jobs, or big ole, wheel about, machine things. This is not a cheap piece of kit (which used to be good for me as the wodging great commission I could earn selling them, paid for my car ) so again you'll pay more than the dodgy backstreet garage. But it should still be cheaper than the dealer.

With a VAG car you'll likely find a decent 'specialist', if not dealer, which will have all the right experience/equipment. There must be a decent Audi forum out there that could reccomend someone close to you.

Never know, on an Audi TT forum, I'm sure you could pick up some good hairdressing tips too... (Sorry couldn't resist.. )

 

[Bodhi]

I thought I'd bring this thread back so you could all see my big cock again.





I'm also thinking of servicing my own car. It hasn't been done for about 20k + miles so it's gonna need the lot - fluids, plugs, filters the lot. I'm assuming this is gonna be a fairly big job but I wanna have a crack. I've fitted countless stereos, built PC's, changed wiper blades and bulbs and changed a couple of wheels, how much of a step up is this going to be?

I've seen a parts store on the web that does a service kit for my car, it's got plugs, oil and air filters, distributor cap, a rotor arm and some oil all in for 68 quid. Now do I need the cap and rotor arm, and is there anything else I should be changing? I reckon with a Haynes manual and some axle stands it'll cost me 100 quid in total, am I better going to a garage for this much?

 

[Tom]

Golf GTi right?

Ok, this is what you need, in order.

1) Ramps or axle stands.

Preferably ramps as they're easier to work with. They're dead cheap, just angle-iron. Try and get a pair with long slopes, they're easier to drive up.

2) Metric socket set and a good ratchet, and assorted ring spanners, and allen keys (and possibly torx bits for your ratchet)

Your car is a VW, so its all going to be metric. Don't get cheap sockets. Find out exactly what sizes the bolts are, and if you're short of cash just get those sizes.

3) Screwdrivers, pliers, etc

Assorted bits of crap that you'll always need for one thing or another.

4) Oil filter cannister removal tool

Chances are your filter will be the screw on type rather than the cartridge type. So you'll need a tool to remove it. Everyone sells them, they're only cheap.



And thats basically it for the tools. You'll need a bucket to hold the waste oil and coolant. For brake fluid you need any old plastic bottle and a bit of rubber pipe (more later).

Oil change - you need oil, a new drain plug and washer, a new filter.

To change the oil, drive the car up the ramps. Leave it in gear, put the handbrake on, and turn the engine off. Remove the keys. Chock the rear wheels with a couple of bricks. Remove the plastic undertray if there is one from underneath the engine. Find the oil pan. On the pan theres a drain plug. Unscrew it a little bit, just to get it loose. Don't drain yet. Find the oil filter, do the same. Then remove the oil filler cap from the top of the engine. Then stick your bucket under the drain plug, and unscrew it. Let the oil drain into the bucket. At the same time, remove the oil filter - this lets more oil drain. When the flow reduces, hold the bucket up to the sump or oil will blow around all over the place. Once all the oil has gone, put your new drain plug and washer back in the sump, and tighten. How tight is down to experience but without a torque wrench, get it finger tight, and then about about 1/8th turn should do it. Put your new filter on, and tighten it up. Then get out from underneath the car, get in and push it back down the ramps. Don't start the engine yet!!!! You need it off the ramps or you won't be able to accurately use the dipstick. Once on level ground, start pouring fresh oil into the filler cap. Use a funnel if necessary. Go slow, and keep measuring the oil with the dipstick. Once its between max and min on the dipstick, thats enough. If you fill it over the max mark you'll have to get back underneath and drain some off. Don't run it with too much oil. Start the engine up, check that oil isn't dripping from anywhere it shouldn't, and drive back up the ramps and put the undertray back on.

 

[Tom]

Brake fluid is easy. You might want the help of a friend. No need for ramps here. Make sure you get the correct DOT fluid for your car. Mine is DOT4, yours might be DOT3. It usually says on the reservoir cap.

Driver's side - turn the wheel full lock to the right. Find the bleed nipple. It will be on the caliper somewhere, maybe with a little rubber cap. Stick a ring spanner on it, then get your little bit of rubber tubing and pop it over the nipple. Run the rubber tubing into your empty plastic bottle (clear bottle), an old milk bottle will do. Open the bleed nipple (1/4 turn should do it). Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir, and brim it right to the top with fresh fluid. Don't spill any, it fucks with your paintwork.

Hold the bottle, and get a mate to pump the brake pedal. Keep him pumping it until you see fresh clean fluid coming into the bottle (no specks of dirt). Once done, hold the brake pedal fully down, and tighten the bleed nipple back up. Not too tight! Don't let the pipe out of the bottle until the nipple is tightened, or it will suck air back in.

Top the brake fluid reservoir back up.

Same for the other side. For the rear wheels you may have to jack that corner up and remove the wheel. When you're done, make sure the brake fluid is between the appropriate max/min marks on the reservoir.

DO NOT WORK UNDER THE CAR ON A JACK

Brakes should take no more than 30 minutes. Its piss easy. And don't get that fluid on your paintwork, its nasty stuff.

 

[Tom]

Air filter is piss easy. If its in a box, just unclip it, pull the old one out, chuck it away, get the hoover in there and clean the leaves/flies/moths out, put your new filter in, clip closed, job done.

 

[Tom]

Dizzy cap and rotor arm - don't bother unless its running rough. Its enough to open the cap (be careful they can get brittle with age) and clean the posts and rotor arm with duraglit. If theres a seal around the dizzy cap to keep moisture out, it may be worth replacing that.

Same with the plugs, if its running ok then leave alone. Leads, try running and revving the engine in the dark of night. If you see sparks flying around the boots, then you need new leads. Otherwise if its running ok, leave them alone.

 

[Tom]

To finish, do it yourself. Its very rewarding. You'll begin to understand how your car works, and that makes you much more confident when driving it. You'll also save a fat wedge.

The most important thing is to take your time, consider every step carefully, and remember where everything goes. An oil change is a bit scary the first time, but believe me its actually really simple. Find out what oil is recommended for your engine, and don't skimp - buy the best oil you can afford. Semi or fully synthetic if possible. Don't buy mineral oil, its shit and you'll have to replace it after 5000 miles. Ask on a VW forum, they'll tell you which oil to use. Use branded stuff, Mobil, Amsoil, Castrol, etc. Not 'Asda oil'!

Once you get confident doing these things, you'll resent ever paying for a mechanic again. Brake pads, discs, wheel bearings - its all simple stuff mate.

Its probably worthwhile doing your coolant as well. Another easy job, just a question of draining and then refilling the radiator with the correct mix of coolant and water.

Drop me an email if you need any advice.

 

[Damini]

I had my car MOTed and interim serviced (the newish one, ford feista) and it cost me near £800. Which came as a bit of a surprise, as it felt like it was running perfectly to me. I do worry that the presence of ovaries sometimes plays into the amount I pay for car repairs. I don't want to believe that I was ripped off, as the guys seemed nice and smiley, but I honestly have no idea

 

[Tom]

Show us the bill, and I'll tell you

 

[Tom]

Oh its too late to edit, but when tightening the sump plug, I meant 1/4 turn. Basically tight, but not so tight that The Hulk couldn't undo it.

And when you're putting the new oil in, don't forget that it will be much clearer than the old stuff, so pay more attention when looking at the dipstick. Thats a lesson I learnt

 

[Bodhi]

Ah excellent Tom, great posts. You've saved me 9.99 on a Haynes manual. If this thread ever gets deleted I will find the person responsible, go to their house, bone their cat and then set fire to it. You have been warned.


The oil change is a given, I've kept it topped up with different oils going on whatever the garage in question had, I need to get some half decent stuff in there to protect the old girl. The brake fluid I think will be fine as I've recently had 15m of brake pipes fitted to it, so Im assuming the garage put new brake fluid in as well.

To be honest, for a hot hatch with 142k on the clock, the engine is still running a treat. There's an ever so slight misfire at 2000rpm, which I think is down to a slight oil leak on a rocker cover somewhere - how easy is that likely to be to fix? It's also sounding a bit breathless over 6000 rpm, but that's just a new filter job I think. I'll use the money I'd have spent on plugs on a K&N I think.

 

[Tom]

Topping up the oil is ok, but its not any kind of replacement for changing it completely. If you keep topping it up, sludges will form around the engine. Not good. Empty it out and put new oil in, preferably synthetic. Don't bother with any engine oil flush treatments, you won't need them.

Synthetic is great stuff, it lasts well over 10,000 miles. Put synthetic in a frying pan and mineral in another frying pan, and boil them - the mineral oil goes rank straight away. The synthetic will shrug it off and live another day.

K&N filters are snakeoil. Don't bother, they truly are shit. You'll be adding about 0.5bhp for £50, its not worth it. If yours has a knock sensor, spend that £50 on 98RON fuel instead.

The misfire is most likely electrical, so do have a think about those leads and plugs then. Also consider your ignition coil, it may be on the way out. Plugs is the obvious one though. If you change them, you'll need a deep socket (Halfords sell special tools). Be gentle, they can break - metal falling into the cylinders is bad. Ceramic falling in you can usually get away with, it gets smashed to pieces and fired out the exhaust valves.

Depends how much money you've got really. If you're a bit skint, sometimes a bloody good clean of the plugs and dizzy can sort things out.

Have a quick look at your discs and pads - if theres a mahoosive lip around the discs, they'll want replacing. If the pads are badly worn, replace them (there should be a wear indicator on the edge, a bit of metal used as a marker). Generally, if they're under 2-3mm thick, replace them.


As for the rocker cover, I don't know your engine but thats not something you want to DIY at this stage. Leave that to a VW specialist.

 

[Damini]

http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs512&d=07063&f=car001.jpg

and http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs412&d=07063&f=car002.jpg

Linked because they might be hefty. I think I've removed anything incriminating, but if I haven't, shout at me.

 

[Bodhi]

Darn I can't rep you again. My mouse just broke.