Self-Servicing

[Meatballs]

Hey all, I'm looking at servicing my own vehicle, changing oil, changing coolant, whacking in new filters - (all depending on how difficult my haynes manual says!).

But I wonder where can you get parts for a car, if not halfrauds? Can you approach local independant garages for them? How do you know what parts for your car?

 

[Gumbo]

You can buy parts over the counter from most factors, should work out about half the price of Halfords. I know, I work for a factor and used to work for Halfords

Looks like Camberley AutoFactors are the ones from my group covering your part of the world, but failing that any Factor in the Yellow Pages should do.

Look for a proper one mind you, one running a few vans, not some small shop who generally buy their stock off someone like me anyway.

Good Luck, and ask questions about the servicing in here, there are enough of us here who can help I'm sure.

 

[Meatballs]

Cheers Gumbo.

I had no idea they were called 'factors'...

Need an oil filter wrench, cant find one on halfrauds website for a start, do these factor places keep stuff like that about?

and how do I find out what filter will fit my car? And or any other parts! It's a nightmare

 

[Tom]

ECP

See, what you do is simple. You write down exactly what car you have, the year of manufacture, the engine type, body style, specification level, etc. You then write a list of what you need for your basic service, which will be something like this:

Ramps
Basic tools (screwdrivers, allen keys, adjustable spanners, some sockets and a ratchet, hammer, chisel, oil filter remover)
Oil
Oil filter (and any O-rings etc, but they should come with the new filter)
Air filter
Coolant (if you really want to, but its not essential)
Brake pads (have a look, if yours are less than a pound coin thickness, get new ones)
Brake discs (usually you can tell by pulsing of the brake pedal while slowing, or if theres loads of corrosion on the surface - not the edge, or a massive lip around the edge)
Brake fluid - 2 man job unless you buy a pump

Once you've got all that, pop into your nearest motor factors (like ECP), buy it all (they'll have it all in stock), and off you go.

Don't buy cheapo stuff - get decent branded gear. Don't buy cheap oil either. Oil is the blood of the engine, change it every 5000-10000 miles regularly.


Changing the oil will be piss easy. Drive the car around for 10 minutes, get the engine nice and hot. Then drive it up the ramps, turn the engine off, pop the bonnet, open the oil filler cap, get under the car (handbrake on and in gear!) Remove any plastic undertrays (usually just a few simple fixings), find the sump plug. Sump plug will come off with a spanner. DO NOT FORCE IT. If it won't come off easily, proceed to the next paragraph Get a bucket ready, release the plug, drain the oil. Leave it for 20 minutes. Have a brew. Now remove the oil filter, clean the receptacle with a rag, put the new filter on. Don't miss any O-rings. Once the filter is on, re-attach the sump plug. If theres a washer on the plug, sometimes its worth reversing it to get a better seal. Once the sump plug is tight, put the plastic undertray back on and pour your new oil into the filler on top of the engine. Don't spill any, it'll stink. Make sure you measure the correct amount, you don't want to put too much in. Once you've put approximately the right amount in, roll the car off the ramps (don't start the engine yet), and use the dipstick to check the level. Get the reading to halfway between max and min. Start the engine, run for 5 minutes, turn it off, leave it 5 minutes, and check the level again. Cushty.

If the sump plug doesn't come off, then buy something like a Topsider (google it), which basically is a simple pump that sucks the old oil out from the dipstick tube.

Air filter is easy. Just unclip the cover (no tools required usually), pull the old one out. Get the vacuum cleaner out and suck the crap out of the box, be careful not to spill anything down the intake for the engine. Then shove your new one in, and close it back up. Job done, 2 minutes work. Don't buy a K&N filter, they're a load of bollocks.

Coolant is easy as well, you just have to unclip the two radiator hoses at the front of the engine and let the old stuff drain. Then reattach, refill with the correct coolant (don't use water or it'll corrode).

If your battery isn't a sealed unit (it'll have screw holes on the top if not), then buy de-ionised water and top the cells up. They tend to dry out and lose the ability to store a charge.

Brake fluid, you might need to do this if your brakes get spongy. Probably best to get a mate to help you, its a simple enough job but you need 2 pairs of hands really.

Brake pads are a fucking doddle, remove the wheel, allen key to remove the caliper, screwdriver to remove the big bendy wire clips that hold the pads on, big hammer to whack out the pads, wire brush to clean up the calipers, put the new pads back in the calipers, put the clips back on, put the caliper back on the hub with the allen bolt, jobs a good un. Watch out that the brake hose doesn't detach from the caliper, it shouldn't but if it does at least you know your brakes hoses/calipers are dodgy and need replacing!

 

[Tom]

Oh, and don't go underneath the car unless its either on the ramps, or axle stands. Don't trust a jack, ever.

 

[Meatballs]

From what I've read online about coolant, and the state mines in I think it needs changing It's all about parts for me, I can work out how-to's for most stuff online or from my haynes.

I guess I can see if neighbours have any axle stands at home, they look pretty cheap on ebay as well.

 

[HGL]

Do you need to be on level ground in order to do a oil change ? only my drive slopes down. Thanks

 

[Tom]

Depends which side the sump plug is on.

If your drive slopes, don't jack it up or it won't be stable. No problem doing an oil change on ramps though.