WPKenny
Resident Freddy
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2003
- Messages
- 1,348
A while back our boiler was playing up. It was shutting off really quickly because it thought it was over heating.
My brother-in-law is a corgi registered plumber but he mostly works on building sites and as such just fits new ones rather than fix broken ones.
After replacing the heat sensor with no fix, another theory was the heat exchanger. So I got some kettle descaler while he took the HE out. We dunked it for an hour and replaced it. Boiler came back to life! Good as new!
Now to the dodgy/dim plumber bit....
It's been about a month since the HE was descaled and the boiler was starting to go wrong again but this time it wasn't even starting up. It would know it should do, made clicking noises when you turned the hot tap etc but it complained of "Low pressure and/or motor error".
So I had a poke around, couldn't see anything obvious. The problem got worse till a few day ago where it just wouldn't work even intermittently. So I trotted off to work, unwashed, and had a shower there while Lou got onto a few plumbers.
A few were busy but she eventually found one that was able to come over that day. He came round and had a poke and said it needed a new PCB (printed circuit board) and muttered something about the fan not getting power. I wasn't convinced but I gave him the benefit of the doubt when Lou called me at work to inform me.
So today I trot off to work for another early shower while Lou waits in for the plumber.
He turns up and fits the new PCB. The boiler's still broken but he claims the new PCB fixed the power problem to the fan. Hmmm.
So he starts having a tinker around for several hours. Eventually he tells Lou it's the diverter valve assembly. It'll cost 100 quid + vat plus labour. On top of the cost of the PCB (100 quid + vat plus labour). He estimates the total job coming to over 400 quid plus VAT. If we just pay for today that would be 260 plus vat incl parts. For some bizarre reason he tells me the price of the same part on other boilers which are more expesive as if to make out that I'm getting a bit of a bargain.
At this point I'm a little wide eyed and starting to doubt his skills. I get Lou to tell him we'll have to think about the further part as it's quite a chunk of money. In the mean time he's managed to get the boiler working.... "sort of" as he puts it. I insist he leaves the "broken" PCB.
So I get home from work to admire his handy work..... (with the power to the boiler firmly in the off position)
Two mis matched screws holding the front of the boiler on when the two proper ones were on the surface below the boiler, unused.
Only one out of two screws holding the cover for the PCB on. The other I find INSIDE the case, LOOSE and sitting in a pool of WATER. (good job I turned the power off!)
Only 3 of the 4 screws that hold the PCB in place were present. No idea where the other one went.
The screw fitting that holds the power cable to the motor was loose.
The cover for the power into the motor was loose so I gently tugged at it and it came away in my hands. The screw doesn't seem to hold it on any more so he appars to have sheered away the screw fitting.
To top it all off the heating/hot water still didn't appear to be even "sort of" working.
So I set to work putting the old PCB back in. The boiler fired into life. For a bit. At least the old PCB is as knackered as the new one it seems.
I have a closer look at the mechanics of the boiler and notice these pins that come out of a valve when you turn the heating on or the hot water. One of the pins is not coming out far enough to activate the swtich to fire up the boiler.
I start to think he may have been on the right lines. Until I read up about the problem.
It seems he wanted to charge us around 450 quid for what looks to be a case of replacing this part....
Baxi 248065 Combi 80e/105e/80HE/105HE CH Diaphragm on eBay, also, Water Heaters Boilers, Heating Cooling Air, Home Garden (end time 28-Mar-09 21:55:11 GMT)
Yes, that's right £6.40 incl P+P!
I'm just waiting for my brother-in-law to get back from work to see if he agrees with what I've found.
Given the above (if you've read this far, well done) do you think the plumber is trying to shaft us or do you think he's just a bit dense and is just using a sledgehammer to crack a walnut?
Just based on the level of his workmanship he's coming no where near this house again. I've already decided to phone him tomorrow and tell him I'm posting the PCB back to him and 40 quid for his troubles and that's the end of the matter.
Are there any plumbers out there who agree it's the diaphragm? Or should I be replacing the whole valve assembly? It seems prudent to do the cheap fix first.
To keep the boiler going for now I have bent the switch trigger slightly so that the small distance the pin does come out is enough to trigger the boiler. Is there any long term damage that can be done by doing this?
Anyway. Hope you enjoyed reading.
TTFN.
My brother-in-law is a corgi registered plumber but he mostly works on building sites and as such just fits new ones rather than fix broken ones.
After replacing the heat sensor with no fix, another theory was the heat exchanger. So I got some kettle descaler while he took the HE out. We dunked it for an hour and replaced it. Boiler came back to life! Good as new!
Now to the dodgy/dim plumber bit....
It's been about a month since the HE was descaled and the boiler was starting to go wrong again but this time it wasn't even starting up. It would know it should do, made clicking noises when you turned the hot tap etc but it complained of "Low pressure and/or motor error".
So I had a poke around, couldn't see anything obvious. The problem got worse till a few day ago where it just wouldn't work even intermittently. So I trotted off to work, unwashed, and had a shower there while Lou got onto a few plumbers.
A few were busy but she eventually found one that was able to come over that day. He came round and had a poke and said it needed a new PCB (printed circuit board) and muttered something about the fan not getting power. I wasn't convinced but I gave him the benefit of the doubt when Lou called me at work to inform me.
So today I trot off to work for another early shower while Lou waits in for the plumber.
He turns up and fits the new PCB. The boiler's still broken but he claims the new PCB fixed the power problem to the fan. Hmmm.
So he starts having a tinker around for several hours. Eventually he tells Lou it's the diverter valve assembly. It'll cost 100 quid + vat plus labour. On top of the cost of the PCB (100 quid + vat plus labour). He estimates the total job coming to over 400 quid plus VAT. If we just pay for today that would be 260 plus vat incl parts. For some bizarre reason he tells me the price of the same part on other boilers which are more expesive as if to make out that I'm getting a bit of a bargain.
At this point I'm a little wide eyed and starting to doubt his skills. I get Lou to tell him we'll have to think about the further part as it's quite a chunk of money. In the mean time he's managed to get the boiler working.... "sort of" as he puts it. I insist he leaves the "broken" PCB.
So I get home from work to admire his handy work..... (with the power to the boiler firmly in the off position)
Two mis matched screws holding the front of the boiler on when the two proper ones were on the surface below the boiler, unused.
Only one out of two screws holding the cover for the PCB on. The other I find INSIDE the case, LOOSE and sitting in a pool of WATER. (good job I turned the power off!)
Only 3 of the 4 screws that hold the PCB in place were present. No idea where the other one went.
The screw fitting that holds the power cable to the motor was loose.
The cover for the power into the motor was loose so I gently tugged at it and it came away in my hands. The screw doesn't seem to hold it on any more so he appars to have sheered away the screw fitting.
To top it all off the heating/hot water still didn't appear to be even "sort of" working.
So I set to work putting the old PCB back in. The boiler fired into life. For a bit. At least the old PCB is as knackered as the new one it seems.
I have a closer look at the mechanics of the boiler and notice these pins that come out of a valve when you turn the heating on or the hot water. One of the pins is not coming out far enough to activate the swtich to fire up the boiler.
I start to think he may have been on the right lines. Until I read up about the problem.
It seems he wanted to charge us around 450 quid for what looks to be a case of replacing this part....
Baxi 248065 Combi 80e/105e/80HE/105HE CH Diaphragm on eBay, also, Water Heaters Boilers, Heating Cooling Air, Home Garden (end time 28-Mar-09 21:55:11 GMT)
Yes, that's right £6.40 incl P+P!
I'm just waiting for my brother-in-law to get back from work to see if he agrees with what I've found.
Given the above (if you've read this far, well done) do you think the plumber is trying to shaft us or do you think he's just a bit dense and is just using a sledgehammer to crack a walnut?
Just based on the level of his workmanship he's coming no where near this house again. I've already decided to phone him tomorrow and tell him I'm posting the PCB back to him and 40 quid for his troubles and that's the end of the matter.
Are there any plumbers out there who agree it's the diaphragm? Or should I be replacing the whole valve assembly? It seems prudent to do the cheap fix first.
To keep the boiler going for now I have bent the switch trigger slightly so that the small distance the pin does come out is enough to trigger the boiler. Is there any long term damage that can be done by doing this?
Anyway. Hope you enjoyed reading.