Question Bike types - help!

Ormorof

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Alrighty I have inherited a reasonably decent bike but it needs the rear tyre and inner tube changed - I know almost nothing about bikes except how to ride them (badly)

This bike has been in a garage for last ~2-3 years but is in almost as good condition as when it was bought (barely been used)

So question is - As I am replacing the rear tyre and inner tube, is it worth also changing the front tyre at same time so I don't end up with any weirdness of one being more worn than the other?

I know this can be an issue on cars but no idea if it applies to bikes

help me oh bicyclists!
 

Scouse

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Nah, you'll be fine. I changed my rear recently because it had been scraped against rocks so much it couldn't hold air any more (I run tubeless) - but my front's done a shitload of miles and still going...
 

TdC

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if your tyres are old and/or have seen hard use it may be worth changing them as a preventive measure. in your case, 3 years and low usage...meh. just check them carefully for any cuts, scrapes or cracks in the rubber.
 

Jupitus

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if your tyres are old and/or have seen hard use it may be worth changing them as a preventive measure. in your case, 3 years and low usage...meh. just check them carefully for any cuts, scrapes or cracks in the rubber.

Yep - I concur - you should always check for cracks in the rubber to prevent unforeseen events!
 

Ormorof

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and err follow up question, so the tyre size is 42-622 - the only inner tubes i can find for a 28" wheel all say things like: "32/47 - 609/642"

what the hell is this elvish? :(
 

Jupitus

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and err follow up question, so the tyre size is 42-622 - the only inner tubes i can find for a 28" wheel all say things like: "32/47 - 609/642"

what the hell is this elvish? :(

42 > 32/47 - you are in the right category
622 > 609/642 - same as before

That's how I would read it :)
 

Trem

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My wife is a manky old bike.

Hope that helps.
 

Tom

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Most people struggle to fit a new tyre. They get stuck at the "the last bit of this fucking tyre won't go over the rim" stage. It's really easy.

You don't need tyre levers to fit a tyre, just your thumbs. Fit the tyre on the wheel so one bead is in the rim and the other is not. Put the inner tube in place, stick a little bit of air in it so it has a tiny bit of shape. If there's a little washer on the valve, put that on loosely. Then start pushing the bead that isn't on the rim, onto the rim, taking care not to squeeze the inner tube and puncture it.

You'll get to the point where there's a few inches of tyre bead that won't go over the rim. That's because the wheel rim has two little "shelves" where the beads normally sit. These shelves are "higher" than the part of the rim where the spoke holes are. The tyre bead will naturally sit on these shelves when you're trying to put it on. So go to the opposite side of the wheel and squeeze the tyre off these shelves, so the beads are sat down near the spoke holes. Do this all around the tyre and you'll find that the really tough bit of bead that wouldn't pop over the rim is now a lot easier to get over. Push as much as you can over (no tyre lever needed, just thumbs), if it's a bit tight again, go back and squeeze the opposite side of the wheel. The tyre will pop straight on after that.

Pump it up a bit and then I always let it back down to see if there's any bit of inner tube stuck under the bead. If not, I pump it back up and away I go.
 

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