Night time shots.

[Ch3tan]

Not sure if I think that these are good photos, but I enjoyed taking them. Night shots with lots of lights and movements intrigue me.

www.ch3tan.com/warpbus.JPG

www.ch3tan.com/warpbus1.JPG

Each shot taken just as one set of lights changed from red to green.

Oh yeah, the images aren't huge, I changed them to 1024*768 so they are under a 1 meg each.

 

[Clown]

Hey, I've been there before!

Here's one of mine.
www.clowneh.nildram.co.uk/nighttime.jpg

 

[Xavier]

Heh, same kind of thing as the long exposure I posted in the fave pics thread, except you have busier roads



Nice though

Have you tried doing long exposures with the night sky yet? if you can get yourself somewhere dark enough on a starry night and do an exposure of around 25s you'll get some nice night shots, bump the exposure up to a few minutes and you'll get photos of the stars trailing as they move though the sky.

Xav

 

[pcg79]

thats just by embankment station isnt it? i think i was there on new years eve!

 

[Ch3tan]

Yeah its taken from the walking bridge.

Unforutunetly the G3 only has a 15s max exposure and no bulb setting. I am waiting for digital SLR's to drop to the £500 mark and not be cut down feature wise before I upgrade. Suppose I could use my dad's SLR, but it's in a bit of a state

 

[Embattle]

I am waiting for digital SLR's to drop to the £500 mark and not be cut down feature wise before I upgrade.

Enjoy your wait

 

[Xavier]

15s? kee-rikey...

 

[Tom]

Not sure if I think that these are good photos, but I enjoyed taking them. Night shots with lots of lights and movements intrigue me.

www.ch3tan.com/warpbus.JPG

www.ch3tan.com/warpbus1.JPG

Each shot taken just as one set of lights changed from red to green.

Oh yeah, the images aren't huge, I changed them to 1024*768 so they are under a 1 meg each.

Nice photos Ch3tan, I've mucked around with night photography but its hard to find suitable subjects. One thing I keep meaning to try is using the flash to expose a foreground object (like a tree), and the rest of the exposure to bring out the horizon and sky. The problem around here is light pollution at night, I have to drive out to the Peak District to get away from that.

Only thing I could suggest with those photos of yours is to get an exposure of the streetlamps without the flare, and on your longer exposure shot for the traffic, to barney out the lamps to get rid of the flare. Combine the two shots in a paint program, and it would look excellent.

 

[Xavier]

Nice photos Ch3tan, I've mucked around with night photography but its hard to find suitable subjects. One thing I keep meaning to try is using the flash to expose a foreground object (like a tree), and the rest of the exposure to bring out the horizon and sky. The problem around here is light pollution at night, I have to drive out to the Peak District to get away from that.

Only thing I could suggest with those photos of yours is to get an exposure of the streetlamps without the flare, and on your longer exposure shot for the traffic, to barney out the lamps to get rid of the flare. Combine the two shots in a paint program, and it would look excellent.

Alternatively there are plenty of circular polarizing filters on the market for the G3 which would have a simiar effect. Bear in mind that if you buy that add-on lens for the G3 you'd need another filter for it as its wider in diameter.

 

[Tom]

Couple of shots I did recently:

Both on Fuji Velvia slide film, fully open, with 30 second exposures. I plan to muck around on my digital camera, unfortunately it only has a max 8 second exposure time

Only real problem I had was with the white balance. The lights on the overhead signs are slightly green, I suppose I could correct that in photoshop, but what filter would better balance that?

 

[Clown]

Hey, no traffic!

 

[Xavier]

Actually, under prolonged exposure, they are green.

You could use a colour adjustment layer if you wanted them white, but it's probably not worth it. Incidentally, what kind of results did auto colour and auto levels produce?

Xav

 

[Tom]

Almost imperceptible differences. Auto colour removes some of the yellow (I didn't check, but I'm presuming it dropped the red/green content), Auto Levles made a very slight difference in the overall gamma.

 

[Ch3tan]

I love the red streaks in the first pic Tom, for some reason I find them really really cool to look at

 

[Tom]

awww shucks

*looks down and twists toes on one foot*

 

[Nos]

Yeah its taken from the walking bridge.

Unforutunetly the G3 only has a 15s max exposure and no bulb setting. I am waiting for digital SLR's to drop to the £500 mark and not be cut down feature wise before I upgrade. Suppose I could use my dad's SLR, but it's in a bit of a state

You can get a Sigma SD9 with a 18-50 lens for £600 new these days, great colour reproduction with that cam, not too good for night photography mind!

 

[Tom]

Thinking about this, if you were photographing still objects at night, you could under-expose two frames, and combine them in photoshop to produce an image with twice the length of exposure time?

 

[Tom]

I went back to the same spot, armed with my new digital camera (well, 2nd hand, but still 4.1Mpx).

The bottom frame is something that caught my eye on the way back. The light is from Trafford Park, and the blobs in the foreground are birdies that refused to stay still. Every time I moved to put them in the reflection on the water, they followed me! Bah!


edit: gah the compression! I'll soon fix that!

 

[Nos]

What aperture were you using for those shots? I want to do some night photography but my camera is noise central when it comes to long exposures, and considering my cameras longest exposure is 2 seconds well.... :|

 

[Tom]

bah stupid 5min edit limit!

 

[Tom]

What aperture were you using for those shots? I want to do some night photography but my camera is noise central when it comes to long exposures, and considering my cameras longest exposure is 2 seconds well.... :|

If you save the images above (not the first set, they're combined in photoshop), and then right click>properties>summary>advanced, you can see all the info you need.

My camera has a max shutter of 8 seconds, pretty poor compared to my SLR's 30 second max, and infinite shutter with a bulb. Its still quite sensitive though, and the main problem was that I couldn't close the iris any further down than f8

 

[Tom]

This is another shot from the paddock area of Valencia circuit. I took this late at night, on Fuji Velvia film. The exposure was a good 20 seconds long, and a van passed through as the shutter was open.

One thing I've noticed on these long exposures, is that moving highlights tend to be broken. Whats the explanation for this? Perhaps local lighting flickering?

 

[Tom]

Sorry, been a long night, so I'm rooting through my old stuff. Heres one I did last year, while experimenting with black and white night shots.

I think the film was Ilford 50. The bright road surface is from passing cars. The car itself is a bright red, so looks very black on the photo (also, not much light hitting it from the camera side of things).

 

[Tom]

 

[Brynn]

were the police stopping to see what the weird man with the camera was doing?



tom those long exposure ones you posted earlier - is it possible to get one as a 1600*1200 for my desktop. Coz i think they look pretty cool

 

[Tom]

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tom.jeffs4/my photos/brynn.jpg

There ya go

 

[Brynn]

Cheers tom - looks nice and funky

 

[Tom]

Waiting for a remote shutter for my new D60, so when I get that I'll go up one night and do a proper 5 minute exposure for a laugh